Turning my face to the sun as I swam in the blue-green waters of the Ionian sea, the nightmarish English summer seemed a lifetime away.
We'd paid a few Euro at the entrance to the nature reserve, and walked down a sandy trail lined with papyrus, past the foundations of an ancient ruin, to discover an unspoilt beach, lapped with clear waters.
The October half term trip to Sicily was an impulse buy, to banish memories of sodden August camping trips with the car slaloming through mud, and seaside walks wrapped up in boots and Parka.
Consulting Skyscanner, the Italian island offered the cheapest, warmest getaway for our family of four. We already loved the north of Sicily, but, inspired by a White Lotus episode when they hoof off on a day trip to Noto, we headed south this time.
The largest island in the Med has a wealth of villa accommodation that is often reasonably priced out of high season - as is car hire.
We went through villa specialists Wish Sicily and found a garden of eden, and the loveliest of hosts in Giuseppe at the Casa del Carrubo.
Flying into Catania airport, with views over the still-active volcano Etna, we picked up our hire car, and within an hour we were at the converted farmhouse 4km from Noto. It has been beautifully renovated, with a large, comfortable main bedroom, smaller twin, and pretty kitchen decorated with traditional yellow and blue ceramic tiles.
The warm welcome included cold drinks and fresh mozzarella in the fridge, Arancini stuffed with cheese, and traditional ricotta-filled pastries Cannoli.
Even in October, Sicilian life is spent outdoors, and the gorgeous garden with shady spots to relax, hot tub, wood fired pizza oven, and pool, was such an idyll it was a wrench to go out every day. As well as the resident chickens, the plot has olive, orange, almond, and lemon trees, pots of fresh chili, and basil.
We twisted off garlic and onions from hanging strings and picked ingredients from the garden to cook fresh pasta, pizzas, and meat and veg on the outside grill.
The Val de Noto suffered a devastating earthquake in 1693, which flattened 70 towns and cities. But the rebuild in Noto, Ragusa, Scicli and Syracuse is considered the flowering of the late Baroque style, with parts protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Wandering the streets of Noto is an immersive experience akin to being on a film set. Every third building is a honey-hued church, or pavement cafe. Daytime temperatures hovered between 23 c and 27c - pleasantly warm but never too hot - the perfect weather for ice-cream.
Noto is famous for its rival gelateria; Caffé Sicilia and nearby Caffe Costanzo, both said to be among the best in Italy. Certainly Costanzo's home made chocolate orange gelato was dreamy, but it's hard to find a bad ice-cream in this area.
One day we ate lunch overlooking the beach in Avola in a restaurant that doubles as a fishmonger. They bring the sea bass for your approval before grilling it perfectly. Another day we ate crispy calamari and swordfish linguine washed down with local white wine in the square of Marzamemi, a quaint fishing lapped by the sea.
Both lunches were followed by a trip to a gelateria, eating a dripping dessert while strolling ancient streets. Twice we ventured into the Vendicari nature reserve, where you leave your car and take a short walk to quiet beaches.
A 40 minute drive away - part of Syracuse - is the island of Ortigia, a finger of land where Sicily's Greek, Roman, Renaissance and Baroque periods collide in narrow shop-lined streets, leading to the fortified Castello Maniace.
The cathedral is on the site of a Greek Doric temple with towering Baroque exterior masking an interior propped up with 3,000 year old columns. After enjoying the bustle of the Saturday morning food market we strolled past the ancient Aretusa spring to find a spot along the Lungomare Alfeo, a walkway lined with bars and restaurants, to enjoy a cold beer and great views.
Fleeing a murder rap in Rome, the artist Caravaggio escaped here and painted the Burial of St Lucy for the city's Basilica of St Lucy. Nearby is the Neapolis Archaeological Park, another UNESCO World heritage site where you can visit the ruins of a Greek theatre, Roman amphitheatre, and early Christian catacombs.
Sicily proved the perfect blend of relaxation and culture, mornings soaking up enough sun to keep you sane through an English winter and evenings eating pizza in a beautiful Baroque square.
Whatever the native summers have in store, we will be back next year.
One week at Casa del Carrubo in 2024 starts at £1518 (sleeps 4) with www.wishsicily.com. Palermo-based Wish Sicily also organise a wide range of activities, including wine-tasting, tours, cooking classes and chef catering, for their guests.
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