Grass Fed restaurant review Camden Hawley Wharf

Grass Fed is the first London venture for Michelin-starred chef Paul Foster, whose Stratford-upon-Avon eatery Salt offers modern British fine dining.

His steak-forward place at Hawley Wharf is much more about well-sourced hearty, comfort food, with big bold flavours for an autumn evening.Aged Irish beef is seared over coals and carved up to share (Image: Courtesy of Grass Fed)

It's a pleasant stroll along the canal next to the Three Locks micro-brewery and as soon as you enter, you are assailed by the scent of meat searing over coals - this may not be one for vegans.

Diners are encouraged to hop up on a stool and eat at the counter, chatting to the chefs as they put a bavette, rump, or rib of grass fed Irish beef to the flames.

You can also sit at tables either upstairs or down, and toilets are outside, up a flight of stairs in the Hawley Wharf development. But it's an intimate space with the ubiquitous exposed industrial look, large blackboard, and tiny bar.There's a day boat fish or steak options include a bavette, rump or shared rib of beef (Image: Courtesy of Grass Fed)

The menu isn't all about meat though. Starters may include a roast bone marrow pannagratato with parmesan, or a steak tartare with smoked egg yolk and flamed mushrooms, but there are plenty of lucious veg here too.

Charred broccoli with chimichurri and Berskwell cheese, grilled cauliflower with smoked almond pesto and herbs, and a fabulous charred hispi cabbage with creamy whipped tofu and a crunchy almond granola are among the sides - not to mention next level roast potatoes, fluffy inside and beautifully crisped in beef fat on the out.

There's day boat fish - on our night skate wing - with samphire and lemon but we opted for a starter of delicately flavoured, decent slices of cured salmon, doused in creme fraiche and dill, and offset with earthy salt-baked beetroot. Grass Fed also offer a beef snag or hot dog with pickles and sauce (Image: Courtesy of Grass Fed)

Cotswold salt pig charcuterie arrived with its suitably creamy fat contrasted with sweet sour pickles, but at £15 it could perhaps have done with a slice of grilled sourdough to accompany it.

Our rib of beef cooked on the bone then sliced to share was tender, gutsy meat a slight bitterness from the charring worked well with a garlic dip. If you like your steak practically mooing this place is for you.

The roast potatoes and cabbage were great sharing accompaniments, although a house Rioja was somewhat underpowered to stand up to the punchy flavours.

There's no dessert as yet, but one is coming for those with a sweet tooth - I'm just wondering whether they will dream up something to flame over those coals.Roast bone marrow with watercress (Image: Courtesy of Grass Fed)

Grass Fed is at Arch S12, Water Lane, Hawley Wharf. NW1.