Epicurus mixes Middle Eastern with US diner at Stables Market

Epicurus is the quirky big sister of The Black Cow, which has been serving up steaks with a similar Levantine twist at Camden Market's new development Hawley Wharf since 2021.

It was founded by Israeli chefs Shiri Kraus and Amir Batito, who also work as caterers and consultants opening restaurants for other people.

Israeli chefs Shiri Kraus and Amir Batito are behind both The Black Cow in Hawley Wharf and the new Epicurus in Stables Market (Image: Courtesy of Epicurus)

They have put their heart and soul into both ventures, which favour the kind of sharing plates and long tables that typify a family feast.

With wooden floors, exposed brick walls, cane chairs and foliage, Epicurus is more stylish than your average diner. You can people watch through large industrial doors opening onto the cobbled North Yard, and there's an open kitchen and adjoining bar where you can enjoy creamy alcoholic milkshakes made with Dondurma Turkish ice-cream from Camden Market; baklava, pistachio, honey and whiskey - you won't have tasted anything like this before.

Loosen your belt and expect cheese-laden dishes that stick to the ribs; juicy burgers oozing baron cheese, bacon jam, harissa, and a bone marrow ailoi for gutsy flavour. The chicken schwarma pancake stack with maple syrup, bacon jam and pulled chicken seasoned with a Jerusalem spice mix is fun comfort food, and the sloppy Burek with pulled, seasoned beef and poacher cheese in crispy pastry a must try.

Epicurus version of a sloppy joe is a crispy pastry filled with cheese, pulled beef and Middle Eastern spices (Image: Courtesy of Epicurus)

Baby back ribs come soused in chili, pomegranate molasses, and date honey, and the Bim Bam Bam corn wedges are draped with raclette cheese and dukkah.

Epicurus' unique dishes include their desserts including The Messy Bamba - inspired by an Israeli children's snack like a peanut wotsit, it combines baklava ice-cream, praline brownie, chocolate caramel sauce, peanut bamba and whipped cream. Not for the faint hearted but very good.

One of the indulgent desserts at Epicurus (Image: Courtesy of Epicurus)

Shiri explains the idea behind The Black Cow was "to disrupt the classic American steakhouse - it is usually very masculine, same cuts, same sides - and bring our own flavours to it, with our sharing concept and hospitality, alongside our spices.

"Everything comes with lots of harissa and is just a fun eating experience. It's a playing field for us - taking the classics, giving them a lot of respect, but making them ours, with a lot of good wine and good drinks. The Black Cow is a place for people to share experiences, share food and just have a good time."

The duo are both pastry chefs; Amir has worked alongside Ottolenghi, Jamie Oliver and Tony Page, and Shiri at Palomar and The Barbary. Just before the pandemic they set up a catering business selling heat-to-eat Israeli food delivered to doors nationwide.

Epicurus is more elegant than the average diner. (Image: Courtesy of Epicurus)

Epicurus is also about "disrupting the traditional".

Shiri said: "In this case, we wanted to disrupt the traditional American diner, by serving up an elevated twist with inspirations from across the globe and a touch of Middle Eastern flair. We were looking for something to epitomise the essence of decadence and living life. As Epicurus is one of the founding fathers of hedonism, the name felt right."

He added that they both love Camden.

"It's a beautiful community and we are trying to grow within it, whilst also supporting it. Camden is colourful and a little bit crazy - just like us!"

Epicurus is at Unit 90, The North Yard, Stables Market, Camden.